Ammonia and Nitrites are byproducts of axolotl waste and are toxic to your axolotl. When a new tank is set up, the water needs to be cycled to populate healthy bacteria, before adding an axolotl.  The bacteria perform the job of removing ammonia and nitrites from the aquarium water.  Regular testing should be done weekly to monitor ammonia, nitrite & nitrate levels.  When nitrates levels rise, a water change is needed.  Tank cycling can be accomplished quickly by adding a seeded filter and mature aquarium water.  Once bacteria has been established it needs a food source such as pellets or axolotl waste.  Without a natural food source, the bacteria will die and the cycle will crash. For that reason we send our axolotls home at the same time the mature water and seeded filter are added to the tank.  In the event of a nitrite spike the tank can be dosed with a 4 times dose of Seachem Prime or Fritz Complete.  These products bind the nitrites temporarily making them too large to be absorbed into the blood stream. 

Nitrites enter the blood stream and bond with hemoglobin which carries oxygen.  The hemoglobin is converted to methyleglobin which does not carry oxygen. If there is too much methleglobin in the bloodstream the axolotl can’t take in oxygen, regardless of how much the water is oxygenated.  The condition can be detected by the presence of grey veins in the tail, gills and head.  The inability to absorb oxygen will reduce quality of life and decrease the lifespan of the axolotl.

Once the cycle is established, weekly perform a water change to vacuum dirt off the floor and remove 25% of the water.  The water change is important for keeping nitrates at a healthy level, 5-20ppm.   For a 20 gallon tank, vacuum to fill one 5 gallon bucket.  For a 40 gallon tank, vacuum to fill two 5 gallon buckets.  Replace the water by adding 10  drops (1/4 teaspoon) of water conditioner and tap water to a 5 gallon bucket. We recommend Seachem Prime or Fritz Complete water conditioners.

Never do a 100% water change, this will crash your cycle by removing too much bacteria.  A siphon with a guard is recommended  in order to avoid accidentally vacuuming up the axolotl. 

Hang on back filters are not preferred for axolotl tanks.  They pour water into the tank which creates a current at the bottom. Axolotls are not busy swimmers and the constant movement is stressful.  We recommend sponge filters.  Clean the filter every 4-6 weeks by placing it into a bucket of dirty aquarium water.  Squeeze the filter about 30 times to loosen and remove dirt.  Don’t rinse with tap water, bacteria inside the filter is important to the cycle.

While we don’t like to cause fluctuations with the ph, it is important to keep it within a healthy range.  A very low ph level causes discomfort, slime coat peels and gills lose filament.  It can be raised gently by adding API ph Up or Fritz ph Higher. Daily add 1drop per gallon, until ph is at least 7.0.  If the ph is high, above 8.0, it can be gently lowered by adding Indian Almond leaf (catappa leaf) or live plants.  

Safe ph level is 7.0-7.8

The temperature range for axolotls is 54-68 degrees. In a 72 degree home the water  temperature will usually stay about 68 degrees.  To bring down water temperature, attach a fan to the tank.  The evaporation will cool the water several degrees.  Chillers are seldom required.  Keep in mind, the evaporation will require water to be added to the tank periodically.

We don’t recommend any substrate in the axolotl tank.  If it is important to you to have something on the bottom, sand can be added once the axolotl is at least 5” length. Keep in mind the sand will inadvertently be ingested, even if you feed them with tongs. Sometimes it is difficult for them to pass the sand and it can cause impaction  Important, avoid gravel, which can be ingested and will eventually cause GI obstruction resulting in death.

Axolotls don't like too much light. Their eyes have adapted to low-light conditions, as they live in areas where the light levels are quite low, and usually, the plants on the water surface cover the water. Bright light also hinders their vision. We can try to replicate those conditions in our tanks as much as possible. It’s very important to place your axolotl tank away from direct sunlight which will also cause problems, by heating the water in the tank.   When using a light on the tank, keep it on a blue setting during the day, and off at night.  Limit white light to cleaning times.

Plants are a very pretty and natural addition to the axolotl tank.  Since axolotl tanks are cool and dark, plant options are limited.  Java fern and some varieties of Anubia are able  to survive, but not thrive. We don’t any longer recommend live plants in axolotl tanks. The plants are not very  beneficial because the cold water prevents them from growing much.  Without that growth they absorb very little nitrate from the water.  Due to the lack of growth, many times  plants disintegrate and form small pieces.  These pieces are easily swallowed by the axolotls causing impaction resulting in death. In addition, be aware that potted plants may contain nitrogen fertilizer, this may raise the nitrates in the aquarium.

Axolotls are fully aquatic and should not be taken out of the water unless it is being moved to another location, or receiving medical treatment. They have a slime coat which is protective. It is ok to handle them in the water with clean hands and a gentle touch. Avoid rough handling to prevent disruption to the slime coat and tearing of the fin and tail. Once your axolotl learns there is no danger, it is common for him to sit in your hand or hold onto a finger.  

The best food for adult axolotls are Red worms or Red   Wigglers which we carry.  They can also be purchased at Academy or bait shops. Axolotls eat by sucking their  food into their mouths and swallowing whole.  Carnivore pellets are a great snack that improve the color and size of the gills.  Uneaten food should be removed from the tank to keep the water in good quality. Many people ask about blood worms, but they are not a nutritious food source for axolotls.  When they are given as the primary food, the axolotl will have significantly stunted growth. 

2 months: 1 baby sized Red Worm (or Red Wiggler), broken into 1” pieces

3 months: 1/3 Red Worm or 1 baby sized Red Worm (or Red Wiggler)

5 months: 1/2 Red Worm (or 2 Red Wigglers)

6 months to adult: 1 Red Worm (or 3 Red Wigglers)

It is not necessary to provide a tank mate for your axolotl.   If you want to add a second axolotl, the necessary tank size is 20 gallons per axolotl.  Most fish are not suitable for the axolotl tank.  Large fish will damage the axolotl gills.  Small fish may be mistaken as food.  The bony skeleton of the fish may cause injury or GI obstruction.  Tank mates that may be safely added  are nano shrimp such as ghost shrimp and blue dream.  Be prepared for the shrimp to slowly disappear though. 

There are 3 types of algae that appear in fresh water aquariums: brown, white and green.

Brown algae is commonly seen in an axolotl tank.  Wiping the bottom and sides of the tank during a water change is sufficient to keep it under control.  

White algae is difficult to see and requires extra work once it appears.  It’s is controlled by disrupting its growth. Periodically feel the inside of the glass below the water level.  If it feels like a coating of jelly is on the glass, white algae is growing. Wipe down the sides, bottom and all the ornaments, daily for a few days.  This will disrupt its growth. Algae will attach to the filters, and can be scraped off in dechlorinated water.  

Axolotl tanks don’t normally get green algae due to the cool water and low lighting. If you experience green algae most likely your tank has too much light.  Keep the tank away from bright sunny windows. If using an aquarium light, avoid using the white setting. Turn the light completely off at night. In the event green algae takes over the tank, avoid the use of algaecides, which are toxic to axolotls. Once the light has been adjusted, wipe the sides of tank and ornaments regularly for a few day.

Fungal infections are common with axolotls.  It typically appears as fluffy white tufts on the gills or wound sites.  Left untreated the fungus is lethal.  Resist the temptation to pull the fungus off.  It is painful and will cause further damage.  There are treatments but be aware that many fish medications are toxic to axolotls.  Safe treatments for axolotls include Methylene Blue, Potassium Permanganate & Fritz Maracyn Oxy.  Our favorite treatment is Maracyn Oxy.  There are many that believe salt baths and fridging are effective ways to treat illness in axolotls.  We strongly disagree.  These treatments are harsh and sometimes further harm is caused.  If you feel that your axolotl is ill, you are invited to reach out to us.  

Catappa leaf also known as the Indian Almond leaf is a safe treatment for axolotls that are in distress.  It works in two ways: by darkening the water to more closely mimic the natural environment therefore decreasing stress, and by releasing tannins and other beneficial ingredients into the water.  Studies done on catappa leaf have shown that it has healing benefits that can hep prevent fungal and bacterial infections.

There are two ways to use catappa leaf in a fish tank. The first is to simply drop a leaf-whole or shredded- into the fish tank and let it break down naturally. The second is to boil it in water and add the “tea” to the fish tank.

1. Tear a catappa leaf into large pieces and put in a pot.

2. Bring the water to a full boil,  then simmer for one minute.

3. Remove from heat and allow to cool to around the same temperature as the fish tank.

4. Pour the tea into the tank.

Once an axolotl is 8 months old, gender can be determined by looking behind the back legs.  It will look like a female while young, at maturity the male's cloaca will become enlarged.

Many people ask us how do I know if my axolotl is healthy?

 The first and easiest way to know if your axolotl is healthy is by looking at the gills.  Healthy axolotls have long gill stalks with fluffy filament on the back. If the gills lose their filament and start to shrink your axolotl is unwell.  Failure to correct it is fatal.  

Lost Gill fluff:  Look at the gill fluff.  If your axolotl loses the filaments on the back of the gills, there is something toxic in the water, usually chlorine or ammonia.  Tub the axolotl in treated tap water and correct the tank.  Purchase a seeded filter to re-establish the bacteria. 

Red toes or bumps:  If the axolotl begins to get red toes, or unusual pink spots or bumps, the nitrates are possibly too high. Do daily 50% water changes, to bring nitrates below 25ppm. 

Impaction causes toes to become red and fall off.

White flakes:  If it looks like white stuff is flaking off of the axolotls body, there is most likely chlorine in the water.  Add water conditioner to the tank.  Add driftwood and Indian Almond leaf to the tank.  Purchase a seeded filter to re-establish the bacteria.

Low ph can also cause flaking of the slime coat.  Test the ph and adjust if necessary.  The slime coat will heal quickly.

Lethargy with Curled Gills: If the axolotl needs to be tubbed, add an air stone to provide oxygen.  In a very low oxygen environment the axolotl will become lethargic and gills will suddenly become extra fluffy and curled.  This extra gill fluff is the axolotls body attempting to acquire more oxygen from the water.  If oxygen is not added, the situation will become fatal.

Ammonia symptoms:  Loss of gill fluff, shrinking gills, bumps on the skin, discoloration of the skin.

Nitrite symptoms: Grey veins throughout the body.

High Nitrate symptoms: shrinking gills, pink toes, rotting spots on the tail.

Impaction: Swollen belly, loss of appetite, pink toes, rotting toes or tail tip, red veins throughout body.  Fungus will appear on damaged areas.

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